A couple of weeks in the past, we offered a collection of pre-owned watches within the HODINKEE Store. One who stuck my eye used to be a first-gen, complete-set Tudor Black Bay Pink “Smiley” in very good condition. I paintings at the Store crew, so I see just about the entirety that is available in – and I sought after this one dangerous. I wrote it up for the Shop Journal. I bit my knuckle and attempted to justify copping it for myself. However I already personal a Black Bay Fifty-8, and I am not within the place to shop for every other on a whim. (Any individual else snapped it up anyway.)
So it used to be serendipitous, then, that I noticed a identical piece come into the HODINKEE Store at round the similar time: An aesthetically similar and extra inexpensive choice from Timex.
Right here, our second-ever Thieve Vs. Splurge column main points my non-public revel in cross-shopping those two dive-style watches from Tudor and Timex.
(Do not fail to notice Cara’s inaugural article here!)
The Watch: Timex Navi XL Computerized Ref. TW2U09900ZV ($259)
Why It is Cool: The Naxi XL Computerized collection is a hidden gem. It holds a spot in Timex’s catalog of new-look mechanical watches, that have proliferated the previous few years. The Marlin and M79 have captured lots of the consideration on social media, however the Navi XL properties quite a few sweet little watches in their very own proper, all paying tribute to army watches Timex produced within the earlier century. (Facet notice – Timex has a shockingly underrated army historical past. I visited an public sale dwelling a couple of years in the past that focuses on American pocket watches and timing gadgets, and I used to be amazed to find the sheer quantity of fuse timers classified with U.S. Time Corp, one in all Timex’s earlier names.)
The Timex Navi XL is under no circumstances an homage, a duplicate, a scam, or any type of facsimile for the Black Bay. All it stocks is a unidirectional bezel in pink, a black dial, and a case measuring roughly 41mm × 13mm (and, smartly, the “T” that begins off each corporate’s names). The place the Black Bay gives blank and compelling antique appears to be like with a slight grain to the dial end, no date show, and a semigloss aluminum bezel, the Navi XL is all about handing over additional knowledge with self assurance. An inside 24-hour scale (for army time) is situated at the dial, as described a date aperture at 3 o’clock this is additional highlighted by way of a magnifying lens at the out of doors of the sapphire. A gentle-catching cleaned pink bezel insert completes the appearance.
Decoration is the place the Navi XL Computerized excels. The place the Black Bay is a blue-blood in relation to conventional dive-watch aesthetics, Timex brings some ordinary parts that assist it stand by itself. Leader amongst those is the decoration of the hour hand, which options an open circle close to its tip that permits you to learn the internal 24-hour scale with out disturbance. This selection highlights the fusion of each dive-watch aesthetics (during the unidirectional 60-minute bezel) and the ones generally related to mid-century discipline watches. The Navi XL brings you sides of each archetypal designs, done in one approachable approach that feels neither cramped nor complicated. It additionally comes with quite a few different properly done main points (I am a sucker for squared-off crown guards) that it’s possible you’ll now not be expecting at its worth.
Why It is Reasonably priced: Timex is in point of fact an international group, and its watches are manufactured at quite a lot of amenities across the world; this one occurs to be inbuilt China. Inside of is an automatic, non-hacking movement from the Miyota department of Japan’s Citizen Team. It is also now not a “true” dive watch regardless of what its unidirectional elapsed timekeeping bezel would possibly need to inform you; the Navi XL is only examined to 100 meters of water resistance, and the crown opens and closes with a pull and a push fairly than screwing down for safety. Timex additionally makes use of a mineral sapphire as a substitute of scratch-resistant crystal and lines an exhibition caseback that some would possibly deem needless for the undecorated caliber inside of.
The Watch: Tudor Black Bay Ref. M79230R-0011 ($3,475)
Why It is Cool: Tudor’s modern dive watch is just a vintage. I have attempted at the OG Black Bay ETA collection, and the following fashions operated by way of in-house COSC-certified movements, dozens of occasions. However one thing about the pre-owned example we just lately stocked jogged my memory of simply how fascinating those first-gen fashions are, with their curved textual content and the old-school Tudor Rose brand at the dial.
When you go for a Black Bay, you might be clearly getting a top of the range Swiss-made dive watch, examined to 200 meters and that includes a tried-and-tested automatic movement, both in-house (in case you are purchasing new) or ETA (for those who opt for an genuine instance during the secondary marketplace), beneath the hood. You can additionally get to peer for your self what the entire hype surrounding one of the a success introductions of the previous decade is ready. And it is going with out pronouncing, however you’ll be able to be the landlord of a top-notch time-piece that can no-doubt serve you smartly within the future years. (There is a explanation why Tudor homeowners generally tend to stay their watches shut.)
Why It is Dear: The center needs what the guts needs. The Black Bay is, with out query, a extra top class watch than the Navi XL (in addition to another present manufacturing Timex). And that does translate to another revel in when dressed in, protecting, or – it is true – even simply fascinated about the watch.
The place one complete rotation of the Black Bay’s bezel counts 60 useful clicks, the Navi XL is double that and is noticeably stiffer simply out of the box. The motion of enticing with the Tudor’s screw-down crown could also be a definite excitement (as Jack memorably detailed all the way through his A Week On The Wrist), whilst the Timex’s crown is in reality not anything to jot down house about.
It is a website devoted to watches, so I would be mendacity to you if I stated the ones main points did not subject. After all they do. They are what make the Black Bay a luxurious piece and the Timex one thing else completely.
The best way to Make a decision
The watch world, in its vastness, has a number of room for a couple of red-bezel, black-dial watches. However the a laugh of accumulating is within the opting for. And the selection is at all times non-public. For me, it got here right down to a easy choice: Will have to I pay a vital amount of cash for a 2nd Black Bay that I need however do not want? Or does the Timex selection give me a similar sufficient thrill?
Reader, for those who’ve gotten this some distance with out guessing the place that is headed, I will solution for you presently: I purchased the Timex Navi XL Computerized to fulfill my need for the Black Bay Pink. And sure, I purchased it from the HODINKEE Shop with my very own cash (the place I due to this fact paired it with our Dark Stained Brown Leather Single-Piece Watch Strap – *chef’s kiss*). And no, I didn’t plan to jot down this tale prior to I bought the watch. However I have in point of fact loved my time with the Timex up to now. It is helped me cement my appreciation for a cultured I have admired for years however by no means moderately pulled the cause on.
And what’s watch accumulating all about if you’ll’t experience all forms of other watches, irrespective of worth level or status?
The place to Purchase Them
The Timex Navi XL Computerized, as observed right here, is priced at $259. It is to be had to buy within the HODINKEE Shop. The present Tudor Black Bay ref. M79230R-0011 is priced at $3,475 on an elderly brown leather-based band; be informed extra at Tudor. The primary-gen Tudor Black Bay ref. 79220R is to be had at the secondary marketplace; store preowned here.