One of the crucial persistently fascinating brands to watch at massive scale watch presentations like Timepiece’s & Wonders over the previous few years has been Bulgari. Like it or hate it (in my view, I like it) there’s no denying that the brand has used the Octo Finissimo platform to nice impact to wreck a wide variety of information for thinness, headaches, and thinness blended with headaches. It sort of feels like yearly they have got a brand new novel fulfillment to boast about, and this yr isn’t any exception, with the discharge of the Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar, the world’s thinnest automatic watch with this kind of complication. It’s an excellent fulfillment, and is rightly attracting numerous consideration this week, however my non-public favourite Bulgari free up at this yr’s fair is on the reverse finish of the spectrum when it comes to complexity, each when it comes to the caliber and headaches, and the decoration itself. It illustrates simply how a lot variance is conceivable with in the Octo Finissimo line, which itself would appear to underscore how necessary this collection of watches is to Bulgari, and the way influential it can be in years yet to come. Let’s check out the Octo Finissimo Tadao Ando.
Tadao Ando is a Eastern architect who has collaborated with Bulgari prior to, lending his call to 2 prior restricted version Octo Finissimo fashions. Ando’s Octo Finissimo’s takes a watch that already has a minimalist vibe working thru it and strips it down even additional – his previous watches characteristic no numerals and rings of concentric circles emanating from the small seconds pinion, and no longer a lot else. This new watch takes that signature decoration component and puts it on a blue lacquered dial. Octo Finissimos tend to be a bit of monochromatic, however in this watch there’s a pop of tone reverse the working the seconds hand within the type of a yellow crescent moon form. This can be a connection with the Eastern idea of Mikazuki, which necessarily makes use of the moon as an emblem for the brief nature of time itself. This type of poetry and storytelling thru decoration isn’t one thing we in most cases go together with the Octo Finissimo, so it’s a laugh to look Bulgari and Ando give it a shot with this watch. Greater than that, alternatively, it’s merely a lovely and eye catching decoration that may simply be loved for its aesthetic sensibilities on my own.
The watch’s 40.5mm case and band are crafted from black, sandblasted ceramic, which gives an acceptable supplement to the blue dial, and in addition differentiates itself from the opposite Bulgari x Ando watches whilst nonetheless making sense with in the whole set. Taken in combination, there’s a definite coherence between the 3 watches Tadao Ando has made with Bulgari, and it’s an altogether attention-grabbing mini-collection with in a bigger workforce of watches that’s changing into evermore cemented into watch tradition yr after yr. It is going to be fascinating to look how Ando and Bulgari iterate on those concepts one day, must they proceed functioning in combination.
That is a dear watch – the retail worth is about at $18,100, and it’s a restricted version of only 160 items. When having a look at watches at this worth level, I love to think about it when it comes to “relative value,” and asking what else can also be had for a similar or equivalent sum of money. It’s simple to pick out on Rolex this present day, however whilst you believe that their (mass produced) stainless steel GMTs incessantly business for figures drawing near that $18,000 quantity, it crystalizes the worth obvious in a watch made with extra unique fabrics, with a finely completed movement, and a in reality distinctive decoration. After all, anyone searching for a Rolex sports watch in stainless steel is probably not move buying groceries ultra-thin haute horlogerie incorporated band (or nearly-integrated band) watches, so having a look to the likes of the Royal Oak and Nautilus which might be in a similar way unobtainable and business for above retail additional illustrate that the Octo is in reality aggressive on this house. Bulgari