Antique Timepieces: A 1987 Patek Philippe Ref. 3940J ‘First Sequence,’ A 1961 Breitling Navitimer, And A 1985 Rolex GMT-Grasp

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This Week’s Antique Timepieces

Weeks like this one provide a problem for antique watch enthusiasts across the world. This bombardment of lustrous, fancy, (in fact actually nice, however do not inform any individual we mentioned that) new modern watches can really feel like a personal attack. After digesting a few of what was once introduced the day past, that private assault is in fact extra of a vindication for antique fans. As brands proceed to lean on antique designs – see, most glaringly, Rolex’s new 36mm Explorer and, additionally, Breitling’s Datora, Duograph, and Premier – there could also be no higher time to be out right here praising the originals upon which those heritage-inspired new releases are constructed.

<p><a href="https://shop.hodinkee.com/products/2477-rolex-datejust-two-tone" rel="noopener" target="_blank"><u>1974 Rolex Datejust Ref. 1601 With 'Sigma' Dial In Two Tone</u></a></p>

1974 Rolex Datejust Ref. 1601 With ‘Sigma’ Dial In Two Tone

<p><a href="https://shop.hodinkee.com/products/ss-oyster-ref-7934" rel="noopener" target="_blank"><u>1964 Tudor Oyster Ref. 7934</u></a></p>

1964 Tudor Oyster Ref. 7934

<p><a href="https://shop.hodinkee.com/products/2479-croton-casd" rel="noopener" target="_blank"><u>1960s Croton Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver Ref. 9870</u></a></p>

1960s Croton Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver Ref. 9870

<p><a href="https://shop.hodinkee.com/products/2473-omega-seamaster-quartz-ref-196-0054" rel="noopener" target="_blank"><u>1975 Omega Seamaster Mariner 1 Megaquartz Ref. 196.0054 / 396.0840</u></a></p>

1975 Omega Seamaster Mariner 1 Megaquartz Ref. 196.0054 / 396.0840

<p><a href="https://shop.hodinkee.com/products/dashboard-timer-autavia-1" rel="noopener" target="_blank"><u>1930s Heuer Autavia Dashboard Stopwatch</u></a></p>

1930s Heuer Autavia Dashboard Stopwatch

<p><a href="https://shop.hodinkee.com/products/cartier-14k-wristwatch-case-624423" rel="noopener" target="_blank"><u>1970s Cartier Dress Watch In 14k Yellow Gold</u></a></p>

1970s Cartier Dress Watch In 14k Yellow Gold

<p><a href="https://shop.hodinkee.com/products/2488-omega-constellation-on-bracelet" rel="noopener" target="_blank">1966 Omega Constellation Ref. 167.005 With 'Pie-Pan' Dial</a></p>

1966 Omega Constellation Ref. 167.005 With ‘Pie-Pan’ Dial

<p><a href="https://shop.hodinkee.com/products/vulcain-chrome-plated-time-date-watch-1" rel="noopener" target="_blank"><u>1960s Vulcain Date With Breguet Numerals</u></a></p>

1960s Vulcain Date With Breguet Numerals

<p><a href="https://shop.hodinkee.com/products/2496-junghans-pocket-watch" rel="noopener" target="_blank"><u>1960s Junghans Pocket Watch</u></a></p>

1960s Junghans Pocket Watch

<p><a href="https://shop.hodinkee.com/products/2508-iwc-ref-647a-ss-date" rel="noopener" target="_blank"><u>1960s IWC Automatic Date Dress Watch Ref. 647A</u></a></p>

1960s IWC Automatic Date Dress Watch Ref. 647A

<p><a href="https://shop.hodinkee.com/products/2516-rolex-submariner-1680-white" rel="noopener" target="_blank"><u>1978 Rolex Submariner Ref. 1680</u></a></p>

1978 Rolex Submariner Ref. 1680

The antique group concept we’d give everybody somewhat of a breather and moved this week’s drop to Thursday. Subsequent week, we will be back to our ceaselessly scheduled programming on Wednesday, do not agonize. From a Croton Chronomaster to a Max Invoice-esque Junghans pocket watch and an early Heuer Autavia dashboard timer, we are assured this week’s variety is easily price the additional day of ready. For one thing somewhat much less glossy than all the ones Timepieces & Wonders debuts, take a look at the total choice of antique within the HODINKEE Shop.

1987 Patek Philippe Ref. 3940J ‘First Sequence’ In 18k Yellow Gold With Box

Via Saori Omura

I am most often no longer one to simply profess my love for a selected watch, however the Patek Philippe ref. 3940 does it for me each unmarried time. In the beginning, it will sound like an oxymoron, however the wonderful thing about this watch is that it is without difficulty complicated. I to find this style to be natural perfection – it one way or the other feels zen as an entire, amidst the entire perpetual calendar components dwelling lovely tightly side-by-side. Accept as true with me, it is simply that nice.

If you happen to might recall, a couple of weeks in the past, we featured a number of funky antique items from the nineteen eighties. It is attention-grabbing to look at that this ref. 3940 is from the similar actual generation. Whilst many watchmakers had been ticking into larger and flashier designs with battery operated movements, Patek Philippe caught with what they knew perfect – making a world-class, vintage get dressed watch, simply how the Swiss were making for hundreds of years. As we all know, it is simple to pile on however at all times harder to edit. That is when restraint and perseverance via the mythical watchmaker shines via.

The primary sequence has greater in its desirability since it is the earliest and purest execution as Philippe Stern supposed. With the fashion of case sizes coming down, the 36mm case is welcome. It is slender and comfy however with a pleasant weight of gold at the wrist. It is also the only execution introduced with only a solid snap caseback and sunken sub-dials. The dial is a shimmery opaline silver with a touch of champagne and a unprecedented German calendar. However, what I actually recognize is the corporate’s signature being smaller and shorter with an accessory over the “E” in “GENÈVE,” which was once replaced within the next executions. Such main points might appear delicate, however I want this modification that assists in keeping the focal point extra at the harmonious dial proportions versus who made the watch. Additionally, let’s no longer put out of your mind the slender micro-rotor self-winding movement with the perpetual calendar module (caliber 240-Q), which permits the case to stay at 8mm.

The ref. 3940 has simply the correct amount of antique and modern components, which lends itself to simple wear with out being too valuable. Finally, watches are supposed to be worn and loved. Particularly with the unmistakable heat patina at the yellow-gold case, I am going so far as announcing that this may well be my Holy Grail watch. I will be able to only dream, however for one fortunate particular person, you’ll make it come true within the Shop!

1961 Breitling Navitimer Ref. 806 ‘Beaded Bezel’

Via Brandon Frazin

To me, the Navitimer is THE quintessential Breitling – it is the watch I envision when I shut my eyes and call to mind the brand. If any individual sought after to acquire a number of vintage fashions from all other brands, the Navitimer would test the Breitling box, no query. It is been part of the Breitling lineup because it was once conceived within the mid-Nineteen fifties, and in 2019, the brand even got here out with the Ref. 806 1959 Re-Edition that is just about similar to the watch we are providing right here. Breitling actually nailed the re-edition of the 1959 ref. 806 – fashions like this make us excited to be an Authorized Retailer. Alternatively, while you deal with the authentic antique one, you’ll perceive why the brand did a re-edition within the first position.

Those early all-black dialed Navitimers with the beaded bezels are one of the most maximum sought-after variants within the Navitimer repertoire. The all-black dial is putting at the wrist, particularly with the luminous Arabic numerals. The best way the sub-dials shimmer ever so quite towards the black dial has me looking at this factor all day. The Navitimer dial is busy via pattern, and the entire other pattern components simply paintings so neatly in combination. Those white-painted syringe hands assist with legibility towards the black dial and in addition give it a pleasant antique aesthetic.

But even so simply being a rattling handsome watch, the dimensions of the Navitimer is an actual crowd-pleaser. When it got here out, this was once slightly a big watch at 40mm, however now it is lovely usual. That is supreme for the ones available in the market who’re hesitant to head for a antique watch as a result of many have a tendency to be at the smaller facet of the spectrum. Necessarily, antique Navitimers are highest if you need a antique watch with a extra fresh dimension. The watch we’ve got right here as of late has elderly superbly and is without doubt one of the nicest all-black dialed examples to hit the Shop; it is in a position for a brand new wrist!

1985 Rolex GMT-Grasp Ref. 16753 In Two-Color

Via Wealthy Fordon

Two-tone is the entire rage for Rolex all the surprising. No person noticed the two-tone Explorer coming, and but, here we are. Not too long ago, all the way through HODINKEE ’80s Week, Danny Milton made the case for the stainless steel and yellow gold combo via claiming, “two-tone is the bodily embodiment of work-hard, play-hard – which was once mainly the last decade’s complete mantra.” I actually do agree from the point of view of the nineteen eighties, and perhaps Rolex is attempting to bring in the roaring 2020s with the newest two-tone free up. You must observe that Rolex, and plenty of different brands, were the usage of two-tone of their catalogs for many years via the time the ’80s rolled round. For no matter explanation why, the glance actually took grasp in that ten-year span, and we now have been happy to combine in a couple of nineteen eighties two-tone Rolex watches lately, in addition to an instance of the brand’s historical past on this area with the 1954 “waffle dial” two-tone Oyster Perpetual that hit the Store simply final week.

Danny did an ideal activity articulating why two-tone “is not unsightly,” however to me, it’s kind of more difficult to place so eloquently. Within the steel, two-tone watches simply hit me as both means an excessive amount of or completely completed. There actually is not an in-between. This can be why two-tone will get a name for being “unsightly.” What I will be able to say with conviction is {that a} two-tone antique Rolex sport watch is flat-out beautiful. On Jubilee, Oyster, or perhaps a leather-based band, GMTs, Submariners, and Daytonas simply paintings in blended stainless steel and gold. The 1985 GMT-Grasp ref. 16753 on Jubilee we’ve got on this week’s drop simply works. That is the very best watch for all seasons however, with the elements beginning to rotate to spring, my thoughts instantly is going to leaving the strap somewhat free and dressed in this GMT all summer season. This appears like one of the most perfect T-shirt, high-low, antique Rolex watches you’ll to find. Test it out now within the Shop.

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